Beads of Bali

Filigree is the art of scultping with fine wire. Silver is usually used because it is less expensive than gold and, like gold, is very malleable (easily formed). In Indonesia, filigree is often called "Java Filigree" because most filigree silver workers are from East Java.

In filigree, the jewelry maker twists and bends wires to create designs that range from the simple to the exquisite. These wires are joined at key stress points with soldering. Often a solid granulation will be used to provide the foundation for the solder work and a means of concealing it. In the design to the right, for example, we see a filigree pendant with a solid sterling "half round" above the six o'clock position. If you were to turn this pendant over, you would find that this component serves as the terminal point for many of the wires, which are neatly soldered to it. The work is so clean that the back is nearly as pretty as the front.

Although most filigree pieces we have seen and sold have been pendants, artists can make virtually any kind of jewelry piece with filigree techniques (bangle bracelets, rings, brooches, charms, etc.). We have also been fortunate to find truly amazing filigree scuplptures depicting animals, such as horses; deities, kings and other nobles; and culturally significant scenes from classic Indonesia literature.

When fine wires are used, filigree takes on a delicate, lacy look. The flower filigree pendant to the left illustrates this look of lace beautifully. It was handcrafted by a great silver worker near the East Java city of Yogyakarta. Thicker wires are used when a piece is being made that must have greater strength, such as a bracelet.

Origins of the Word

Filigree was once known as "filigrann," based on the Latin words for grain (granum) and thread (filum).

History

Much of the history of filigree is lost, but it is an art that was practiced by the ancient Greeks, and perhaps earlier civilizations. There is also good evidence that the ancient Egyptions and Phoenicians were quite skilled at filigree. In time, filigree methods spread across Europe and into the Indian subcontinent. From India, filigree work made its way across the rest of Asian, including Indonesia. Filigree has probably been practiced in Java for more than 2000 years.

Buying Filigree

There are two things you need to know before buying filigree. First, it is not typically sold on a "price per gram" basis because the amount of labor that goes into each piece is the major cost. A small, delicate filigree piece with elaborate, fine wiring can take more time to make than a larger, simpler piece.

Second, filigree can be sold "bright" (shiny) or antiqued, but the usual practice is to sell it antiqued (darkly tarnished). This is done for pragmatic purposes. the amount of surface area in filigree is much greater than in solid sterling pieces. As a result, filigree can tarnish quickly.  Most merchants believe that it is easier to antique it (i.e., chemically induce antiquing) than try to keep it shiny. We took a different approach. We sold our filigree "bright" because it is easy to remove tarnish and to prevent it from reforming. Visit our Silver Care section to learn how.